
Frequently Asked
Questions
How is ContrastMaster
different from contrast adjustment tools in Photoshop or other
applications?
ContrastMaster offers three special
contrast adjustment methods (called Dynamic, Adaptive and Local
Contrast) which are not available in Photoshop and other applications.
These can still effectively emphasize contrast in image details
when other conventional contrast tools fails. Furthermore, ContrastMaster
offers all contrast adjustment methods in one dialog. So you
can quickly and easily adjust contrast without switching back
and forth between various dialogs as you need to do in Photoshop
and other applications. ContrastMaster also offer some masking
options for selectively applying contrast, e.g. to shadows,
highlights or areas with certain colors.
I am already doing
local contrast adjustments with the Unsharp Mask tool. Why should
I use ContrastMaster?
ContrastMaster offers three methods
for adjusting local contrast. These methods are more effective
and offer more control over the effect than the Unsharp Mask
tool. So you will achieve much better results with ContrastMaster.
Please get the demo version of ContrastMaster and see yourself.
How does ContrastMaster
differ from your LightMachine plugin?
As their names suggest LightMachine
is meant for brightness and shadow/highlight corrections whereas
ContrastMaster is for adjusting the contrast. Although ContrastMaster
offers a brightness slider and sometimes automatically brightens
up some image areas, LightMachine works more effective on very
dark images and offers much more control over the brightness
adjustments. LightMachine has some contrast adjustment options,
but they are meant for improving the look of brightened shadows
or darkened highlights. ContrastMaster offers many more and
more effective contrast tools especially for improving the contrast
in image details. If you apply ContrastMaster to an image that
was adjusted with LightMachine, you can still gain a lot.
Can I create HDR images with ContrastMaster?
ContrastMaster is not a HDR tool, because
it does not create a HDR image by combining multiple shots of
the same scene. ContrastMaster works on normal photos, but it
can also be applied to the output of HDR software to improve
these image even more. ContrastMaster is not meant to replace
HDR software. One of its purposes is to achieve contrast effects
known from HDR software with a single photo.
HDR tools need to compress the contrast
range of a HDR image into the lower range of a screen or print.
To achieve this they often increase the contrast of individual
image areas while greatly reducing the contrast in other less
important and flat image areas. ContrastMaster does something
similar with non-HDR images. It increases the contrast in some
image areas, which makes many details better visible, and reduces
the contrast in other image areas. So images processed with
ContrastMaster may appear as if they were created from an HDR
image.
After I apply ContrastMaster
on a portrait photo, the person looks much older. What can I
do about it?
You often get an nice effect if you
apply ContrastMaster on the portrait of a man or old person.
ContrastMaster can emphasize masculinity or old age, which may
make the person look more interesting. ContrastMaster can also
produce nice effect on smooth skin, e.g. the skin of children
or older people with a lot of make-up. However, it is not recommended
to increase the contrast of skin area in portraits of young
persons or woman without much make-up, otherwise skin imperfection
will show more clearly. So you need to selectively apply the
ContrastMaster effect to these portrait photos.
ContrastMaster offers a Mask tab sheet with a color option that
lets you remove the effect from skin areas. You just need to
use the color picker tool to select the skin color and move
the appropriate slider until the contrast adjustments is removed
from the skin areas. For even more control you can also create
a selection or layer mask in your image editing application
for selectively applying the ContrastMaster effect. If you do
extensive portrait retouching, you will also need such a facial
mask for other retouching task. Alternatively
you can also set the Mix combo boxes in Novice or Expert Mode
to "Edges". This will keep flat skin areas from being contrast
adjusted.
Some of my photos contain
a white background or a cloudless sky. ContrastMaster
adds too much contrast to these areas whereas the rest of the
image looks just fine. What can I do?
Basically this is the same question
as the above question about portrait photos. By default ContrastMaster
tries to improve contrast even in areas that have no texture
and very little contrast. As a result these areas may look unnatural
afterwards. You could apply a weaker effect or use very high
Radius or very small Detail slider values, but usually that
is no option, because it reduces the contrast in textured areas
even more. One workaround is to set the Mix combo boxes in Novice
or Expert Mode to "Edges". This will avoid that the contrast
effect is applied to uniform areas like a wall or the sky. Another
options is to use the controls on ContrastMaster's Mask tab
sheet to selectively remove the effect. You could also create
a selection or layer mask in your image application if nothing
else helps.
ContrastMaster sometimes
brings out the noise in my photos. How can I avoid that?
As ContrastMaster lets you boost the
contrast in a photo to a high extent, it can make imperfections
in bad quality photos more clearly. You can try to avoid that
by applying a less intense ContrastMaster effect to such photos,
removing the effect in shadows with the Shadows slider on the
Mask tab sheet in ContrastMaster or sizing down photos before
you apply ContrastMaster. Often it helps a lot to apply noise
reduction to the image before or after you apply ContrastMaster.
Using JPEG artifact removal before running ContrastMaster will
also help a lot with highly compressed photos. However, it would
be the best if you try to get the best image quality from your
camera or scanner in the first place.
ContrastMaster increases
the color cast and vignetting in some of my images. Why?
Low contrast photos usually do not
exhibit noise, artifacts, color casts or lens vignetting. But
when adjusting the contrast these imperfections become quite
visible. As ContrastMaster can improve the contrast quite dramatically,
there is also a good chance that it will make these things more
visible. If you do not want to live with lower contrast images,
you should remove noise, artifacts, color casts and lens vignetting
before running ContrastMaster. You can also do it after running
ContrastMaster, but doing it before lets you easier judge the
effect in ContrastMaster. Another alternative is to improve
the quality of your photos, e.g. by using a DSLR camera, avoiding
a high ISO setting and shooting RAW (in case JPG artifacts are
a problem).
Why does ContrastMaster
not effectively work on silhouette
photos?
ContrastMaster is not meant to be used
with photos with extreme contrasts that have one area totally
black and the rest of the photo extremely bright. If you want
to remove the shadows from such photos, you better use a shadow/highlight
tool like our LightMachine
plugin. After your brightened up the photo you can use ContrastMaster
with more success. If the contrasts are not that extreme in
the photo, the Brighten slider in ContrastMaster may already
produce the desired result. If you do not want to lift the shadows
in the photo, you can also switch to Global Contrast mode in
ContrastMaster for applying some tonal tweaks.
Sometimes ContrastMaster
renders a bit slow after pressing OK. What can I do about it?
The slow down is usually caused by
the Adaptive Contrast effect. Although it renders relatively
fast on images below 1 Megapixel (like the preview image), it
can take up to several minutes to process a 10 Megapixel image
on an old single core processor. If you use a dual or quad core
processor, the rendering will be up to two or four times faster.
You can dramatically increase (up to eight times) the rendering
of the Adaptive Contrast effect by activating the Speedup check
box on the Adaptive tab sheet. However, the effect will then
look a bit different. Sometimes it will look better, but other
times you may want to keep the Speedup check box deactivated
and accept the longer rendering time.
Why does the final
result of ContrastMaster sometimes look a
bit different from the preview?
The preview of ContrastMaster may not
display the final result 100% accurately sometimes. That is
usually the case with larger images and smaller Radius values.
That is because the preview usually only contains 0.2 to 0.5
Megapixel of image data whereas the full image is 10 Megapixel
image large. As ContrastMaster works on small image details,
the small preview image may not contain enough image details
to represent the full image perfectly.
The same problem occurs even graver
for all sharpen and noise/grain filters, which work on an even
smaller detail level. For these filters you usually switch to
a 100% preview zoom and scroll around to view the effect accurately.
You can do the same with ContrastMaster. Additionally you can
improve the preview accuracy by enlarging the ContrastMaster
window and thus the preview. On the other hand the final result
often looks even better than the preview, so it may also mean
a positive surprise rather than a problem.
I would like know more
about how the ContrastMaster effects work in order to be able
to use it better. What are the principles behind it?
Providing more explanations than what
is already written in the product description and the manual
would not really help and probably even confuse some people.
Even I, who wrote the algorithms behind the ContrastMaster effects,
have to try out various settings for every image before I reach
the best result. My mathematical knowledge about the effects
does not give me any real advantage over a normal user. Each
effect can produce very different results on different images,
even when using the same effect settings. I am sometimes still
surprised what ContrastMaster manages to do with an image.
The best approach is to try out the
effects and controls and get a better feel for them. You can
do that best if you use the Global Contrast, Dynamic Contrast,
Adaptive Contrast and Local Contrast modes, because they apply
the effect individually and not blended together like Novice
and Expert mode. If you do not like working with many controls,
you better stick to Novice Mode and take into account that you
may not be able to achieve the absolute best results.
When I want to process
huge images (100 Megapixel and more) ContrastMaster quits with
an error message. What can I do to make it process these images?
ContrastMaster needs a multiple of
the image size to process an image. So it needs a lot of RAM
to process huge images with e.g. 12000 x 8000 Pixel. Here are
some things you can do to make more memory available to ContrastMaster
or to make ContrastMaster consume less memory:
1. Increase the Memory Usage value
in the Preference dialog of Photoshop. Turn up the values as
high as possible.
2. Add more RAM to your computer. Under 32bit XP and Vista add
up to 4 GB of RAM and under 64bit XP and Vista add up to 6 GB
of RAM.
3. Under 32bit XP set the /3G switch to allow ContrastMaster
to use up to 3 GB of RAM (usually 2.7 GB RAM). Under 64bit XP
and Vista ContrastMaster automatically uses up to 4 GB of RAM
(usually 3.2 GB RAM).
4. If you only use the Global
Contrast mode or Dynamic Contrast mode, ContrastMaster will
use much less memory than with the other modes.
5. Scale down the image to make
it smaller.
6. Another option would be to process parts of the images one
after the other by using selections. But you need to make sure
that the borders of the selection that lie inside the image
are "feathered" in order to create a soft transition between
the image parts. This can be done in Photoshop by creating a
selection for the image part, switching to Quick Mask mode,
creating another selection around the border and using the gradient
tool for the producing a soft transition.